Resawing Trick

     Here is a simple way to resaw consecuative slices on the bandsaw without having to use measurement. Resawing with the slice against the fence and trapped between the blade and the fence is not a very good way to resaw. With any small to medium size bandsaw, there is a considerable amount of waver in each cut and when registering that freshly cut surface against the fence, the waver becomes exagerated with each new cut. A better way to resaw is to cut the slice off the open side rather than the side against the fence. That way each cut is registered by the same nice smooth and squared side that is against the fence. The difficulty with doing it that way is that it is not easy to get cuts of very even thickness. I have a  good fence with a threaded hand crank and a tape measure readout along the edge of the table, and even then it is difficult to get cuts of the same size. To solve the problem, I came up with this idea. Looks simplistic, but works great.

     To preface this, I will say this is just not going to work with the smaller bandsaws. In general you need a good size saw to do resawing of any hardwood. I have had many bandsws from the 14" to 36" range and currently have a medium size 24" resaw. Like many luthiers, for years I used a 14" Delta with the extender block. You can do a little resawing using very fresh blades and going slowly, but blades dull fast from the heat buildup in the short band.

     To use this trick, you need to create some sample shims in the thickness you want your slices to be. The shim should be as thick as the slice you want, plus just a tad more that your saw's kerf. You will have to experiment to see what is right for your saw. Shown here are several sizes that I use in my resawing. They are used as shims, and on edge as you will see.

The key to this is a very powerful magnet. Embarrassingly, I have not been able to determine the source of the magnet I used. I found it lying around the shop, but any powerful magnet would work. Powerful is the key ingredient here. There are many sources for magnets on the web, and some useable ones may also be available at welding supply shops. The one I have is nice because it has a hole that allowed me to mount a handle, as you'll see. It is 1 1/2" in diameter and 3/16" thick. It is very strong and will give you a good blood blister if you get your fingers between it and steel! To avoid that I added a handle as shown below.

     The first cut off the outside of the block still has to be made by eye. After the first cut, push the magnet firmly up against the fence, just opposite the blade. My fence is cast aluminum. If you have a steel fence, you may have to add a buffer , probably just tape on an extra shim to the fence, to keep the steel fence from dragging the magnet when you move it. Then select a shim for the size slices you want and move the fence over towards the blade until the shim just drops between the magnet and the fence. After each cut slide the magnet against the fence and move the fence over again until the shim drops. If your fence is not really sturdy, and can be shifted by hand on the far side when locked down, you might have to clamp that end somehow.Using this simple method, you will get equal thickness slices and never have to square the block or board.